We started our “chat with the producer” project by talking to Stéphane Dubois, commercial director of the Charles Ellner house, which has 50 hectares of vineyards spread over 15 villages in Champagne (5 macro-regions). Mainly in the Epérnay region, where the production is located, but also in some other regions such as the Côte de Sezanne (15 hectares) and Montagne de Reims (7 hectares).
The terroir of the main region of the house is very favorable for the Chardonnay grape, which is used in major percentages of its blends. of the Blancs de Blancs. The base wines of this grape pass through oak barrels. Its production has been sustainable since 2001 and they do not carry out malolactic fermentation to preserve the characteristic freshness of the Chardonnay grape. The house recently opted to reduce the dosage level of most of its labels, even producing some Nature or Zero dosage champagnes (no added sugar in the expedition liqueur), one of which is even sold here in Brazil (Ellner Integral). For him, the denomination of dosage (Brut, Extra Brut, Nature...) influences sales, especially here in Brazil, where there is a preference for Brut, perhaps because of prejudice or lack of knowledge... (we are here to help with that, right? ?!). The fact is that champagnes with 0g/L of sugar have different characteristics, as they are the expression of the grape in a more natural way, without the intervention of sweetness, which alters some aromas and flavors... And that is why at times sugar is important! Some blends need certain dosage levels precisely to create a balance in the blend, which depending on the blend, vintage and several other factors, sometimes it is not so balanced being Nature. And that's where the all-important job of cellar chefs comes in: finding the perfect balance for each cuvée!
Regarding the frosts that happened in Champagne in April, at the time when the vines began to sprout (see article "Frosts in Champagne", Stéphane said that his crops were not much affected. He also said that even with the region's overall loss of about 30% of shoots, it shouldn't have a big impact on the year's production. What happens is that in addition to the reserve wines that the houses have for the assemblage with the wines of the vintage, Champagne has a production limit per hectare, which in some cases does not allow the use of all grapes for the production of champagnes. , then there is this margin, which in some vineyards should end up not affecting much.
Our chat was at the VinoVirtual online fair. We appreciate the availability and attention of Stéphane, who was very kind and provided more information about this producer. Fortunately you can find some Ellner champagnes here in Brazil on the EnoEventos website (https://www.lojaenoeventos.com.br/) - Brut Reserve e Nature
Ellner also inaugurates our producer index, where you can read more information about the House, Contacts and visit information. The one from Champagne Ellner is on our website at the link: https://www.champagnebrazil.com/post/champagne-ellner
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